How to remove your exhaust nuts.

Here's the drill. If you suspect a stuck nut heat and or a good penetrating oil may help. I put the wrench on a exhaust nut and give it a good body
weight push. Often that's all it needs. If not I may try a few more times, last resort I'll give the wrench a good blow with a dead blow mallet. This 
can knock it loose, though beware of a nut that seems to let go but them gets tight. That usually means it's seized. If it seems seized you can 
either play more with heat or oil or cut it off. To cut it off use a dremel or hacksaw blade in a holder and saw between two fins until you are right 
at the threads. Then put a metal chisel in the kerf and whack it with a hammer. This will pop the remaining metal the nut will expand slightly and 
you can spin it off. Nuts are $28-34 bucks but it's way cheaper than the $150-200 if you foul up the threads and need to remove the heads and 
have new spigots or threads welded or sleeved on. Always better safe than sorry.

Any good quality nickle or copper based anti sieze will do the job.  Jeff

New repro valve cover, has a small split in fin.  Just aim it down.  $45.00

A nice flat points plate.

$75.00

New from BMW, $200!

 
 

Nice centerstand, wish I could remember what it's off!  Tangs on top are 8 5/8" apart, center of mounting bolt to bottom of curve is 9 7/8" which might help. Very nice shape  $50.00

Nice /5 handlebar mounts.  Maybe others?

$40.00

R 80 rt decal, red

$5.00

2, 800 cc decals 

red w/ black background

$5.00 each

/5 Alloy gas cap, very nice. though will need a new gasket. Hard to find!

$100 plus shipping

sold!!

Slash 5 fender, nice shape no cracks etc.  Paint is 80% or better.  $75 plus shipping

Slash 5 hub cap,  quite seviceable, a few dents$20 plus shipping 

 
 
 
 

A nice primer on valve adjust, not mine and I don't know where I got it.  Let me know if 
I'm stepping on someones toes.  JT


There are SEVERAL methods. My personal method is to have the bike on
the centerstand, then jack the rear frame piece up a tad, with what is
available, to get the rear wheel just barely off the ground.
I put the bike in top gear (4th or 5th), and rotate the rear wheel in
the NORMAL direction,
using the gears backlash...in other words, jerky back and forth, always
moving engine in normal
direction, until the LEFT INTAKE valve, the rear valve, is coming
OUTwards...that means that valve is closing. I then continue small
jerks until the flywheel is at OT in the timing hole window.
I then take LEFT side valve measurements, set those down on paper for
future reference. Depending on mileage from new valve job or since last
adjustment, I MIGHT torque the heads to 26 foot pounds, set the rockers,
whatever. I am NOT a believer in doing that very often. I probably
will try to move the rockers UP and DOWN, see if just the oil film is
moving.
I might look at the rocker-to-valve end contact, see if it is off
center.
I set the clearances fairly closely to .0045" intake, .0085" exhaust,
with pressure on adjustor end to take up oil film slack, etc. That is
equivalent to an easy smooth fit for the .10 mm and .20 mm metric
feelers, same for .004" and .008" feelers.

Next, bump the engine forward for ONE...JUST ONE, 360 degree
revolution....back to OT again.
If you were watching this from the right side of the bike, you would see
the right rear intake valve
come outward, like you did on the left side.
Now I do the right side cylinder in the same way.

Some folks will remove spark plugs when rotating the engine (one way or
other). As an old-time wrench, I am against that, in the very off
chance that a bit of carbon gets into a valve seat, thereby upsetting
the valve clearance measurement/adjustment.
Some rotate the engine by first disconnecting all wires to the battery
negative post, and
then removing the front cover, and then they rotate the alternator rotor
center allen bolt. I am also not in favor of that method. I do NOT
like that bolt tightened beyond the modest pressure needed in originally
putting the rotor on the crankshaft. You also almost have to remove the
spark plugs for that.
Other folks might tell you to rotate the engine by whatever means, and
have a finger over the spark plug hole, wait until you get some
pressure, then start rotating to OT. Again, I don't do it that way.
That will, of course, work just fine.

***For bikes with kickstarters, you can, of course, just use the clutch
lever at the bars to move the kickstarter into engagement about halfway,
where it is easier than the 'catching' the kickstarters often have when
trying to push them from kickstarter released position....and then use
the kickstarter with your hand, to bump the engine rotation. That
negates lifting the rear tire off the ground.

Some may tell you of other ways of finding OT ...without even removing
the rubber timing plug next to the oil dip-stick. Yes, can be done,
best 99% of you do not. Yes, the BMW camshaft has slow rise ramps.
Yes, OT is not critical.

When replacing the valve covers, the later ones, near the spark plug
area, are marked L and R.
Do not try to put them on the wrong side of the bike, nor try upside
down.
WIPE the cover, and head, so that any oil on the gasket and head surface
for the gasket, is wiped away. Otherwise the gasket MIGHT carbonize
some of that oil,
and could tear, at next cover removal.
Do NOT overtorque the two small 10 mm nuts (one or two wave washers on
each, please), nor
the center acorn nut. Stripping one of those is not the worst of
days....you can have a REALLY bad day doing other bolt and stud
stripping elsewhere's on the bike.

Pulse Air Injection System If you have a later Airhead with the 
pulse air stuff on it, you may want to remove it!!  (I would)  Here's a article 
with the info on how to do it, why to do it and what you need to do it.
Pulse Air Link